Days IX and X - Finding our way back home

Day IX - Return to Vegas

Time: fleeting but well spent!

After packing the car and starting the dish washer, we did a wistful “goodbye-tour” of Two Feathers before closing the ranch gates and yes, another chapter to this amazing trip.  

Returning to Las Vegas, or Lost Wages, as some might call it, our hotel, the Tuscany, offered these tired folk some R and R... a fitting end to our time in the Southwest.   

Day X - U.A. gets us home.

The first leg of our return trip got us to "The Windy City" where, after a couple of burgers, we all left for our respective cities.

In a few short days, Jim and Beth would be leaving for Guatemala and already, we were wondering if there would be snow in Munich.

Thanks to Linda for being an amazing travel partner.
A big thank you to Jim and Beth for being part of this wonderful adventure!  May we do it again, soon.

Day VIII – The West Rim

Day VIII – The West Rim

Were we tired? Hell, yes! But Zion's West Rim had yet to be discovered. 

Today, Day VII, was our final day in Zion and we still had an impossible half canyon to explore.  What to do? Linda was particularly interested in a hike along the Virgin River.

Jim and Beth wanted to scale up to Scout Lookout.  
I felt that my goal had to be Angels Landing. 

My interest in Angels Landing was deep. A failed ascent on our last trip in 2010 only made stronger my desire to return for a second try. 

We first climbed together, up a series of switchbacks hugging the side of the mountain.... 

... and then, briefly, into the shady coolness of Refrigerator Canyon.

Next, came Walter's Wiggles, a set of twenty-one steep man-made switchbacks...

...leading onto Scout Lookout, a fantastic observatory and home to soaring condors.

There Jim and Beth took pictures and met a very knowledgeable park ranger and unconditional advocate for those condors we saw soaring just off the cliff, at eye level.

  

The sight of the half-mile of the narrow trail leading from Scout Lookout to the summit had my heart pumping. 

Was it anticipation or apprehension? 

The answer was “Yes”

At times, the strenuous little path did require a little delicacy...mainly  due to some sharp drop-offs ...sometimes on both sides...and narrow footing. 

Occasionally and thankfully, predecessors had anchored chains into the sandstone at some of the more precarious spots.  For me they were simply...

  ...long thin security blankets.

Once there, perched as close to the edge of that beautiful oblivion as I dared, I felt very good.

It had been a dream for some time.

Back at Scout Lookout, we could feel the same thermals that were lifting the condors.  And today, we too felt somehow that we had wings.  

At Two Feathers, we could start to feel the grip of nostalgia for Zion.  In times like these distractions are your best friend.  For our last night, we had two: good wine and our home-made Zion slide shows.  

A Prayer

May we continue to discover for a long, long time!

Stay thirsty my friends!

Day VII: It's “Hoodoo” not Voodou!

Day VII: It's “Hoodoo” not Voodou!

Hiking in  Bryce Canyon National Park

Up well before dawn, we were on our way to Bryce just as the sun was warming western peaks of Zion.  Our next adventure would take us 50 miles northeast of Zion and 1,000 feet in altitude higher.  We were about to discover another Utah marvel, the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon National Park. 

Geographically, the top of Zion National almost lines up perfectly with the bottom of Bryce and so our van had to first climb the switchbacks of Mount Carmel and then into its famous winding tunnel...this 1.1 mile drive, accentuated with windows chiseled out of the sandstone cliff so that the magical sneak-peek of Zions 4,000 foot walls whets the appetite. Drivers beware!

Bryce Canyon National Park is located in the High Plateaus region of the Colorado Plateau in Utah. The attraction is Bryce's forest of bewildering giant sandstone towers called hoodoos. Elevation, climate, rock type and the plateau's orientation are elements that, when combined, form these unusual shapes carved by erosion...veritable works of art called hoodoos. 

And no where else in the world can you find a concentration of pinnacles with odd shapes like those found in Bryce Canyon.

Each sculpted by time...each mesmerizing,

they seem to reach up from the canyon floor and draw you down into the valley with them.

For three hours, we walked among them, spellbound by their size and mystical form. 

 For all of us though, the culmination came as we ascended back up to the canyon rim over 26 switchbacks. 

During the ascent, we were bathed in a soft light that flooded the narrow vertical canyon. 

I even felt a little bit like we were in a scene of an “Indiana Jones” movie.

Just another exquisite day in Utah!    

Day VI: Climbing to Observation Point

Day VI: Climbing to Zion's Observation Point

I've never felt adequately eloquent to express the inner passion I feel when I'm in the mountains.  

I can say, however, that I derive a deep personal pleasure in their presence.  The feeling is only heightened when I'm able to share this peace and contentment with fellow hikers.
  

Mountains impart a Zen-like peace to most.  Be it the exertion of the climb or the vistas they offer, they seem to have the power to stir our hearts.    

  

Recently, I even heard this joy expressed in biblical terms.  We were after all in Zion.  One hiker equated his  mountain treks as  "sometimes chasing angels, sometimes fleeing demons". 

Saint-Exupery, author of "Le Petit Prince" said:  


" The Beauty of the Mountain is hidden for all those who try to discover it from the top, ....revealed only to those who climbed it..." 

Huge servings of scrambled eggs, yogurt, toast, and coffee were today's nutritional fuel.  Today's trek would lead us to Observation Point over one of Zion's most staggeringly beautiful trails, the very difficult East Rim Trail.  

One last backpack check: lots of water, yep;  plenty of protein,check.  

Our 6 hour hike proved to be a love/hate relationship with the trail...thankfully, it was mostly about the love. 

The first three hours were a little punishing.

 Whether zigzagging over arduously steep switchbacks, replete with dizzying drop offs and eye popping scenery or winding through beautiful narrow canyons, we had to be ever mindful of those unwanted but potential companions: vertigo, twisted ankles/knees, and sore calves.

At break times, our water and simple trail food tasted like champagne and truffles.  Délicieux!!! Especially, at the top. 

Perched at the edge of a shear cliff, Observation Point overlooks the whole valley.  

Today, Zion may well have been the happiest place on Earth!

The condors overhead seemed to think so!!!

“Back at the ranch”, it was drinks on the deck for everyone! Could it get any better than this?

Day V: Welcome to Zion, Utah

Day V: Welcome to Zion, Utah!

Don't forget to breath!

Zion was waiting. Although we were sophomores here, my heart began quite suddenly to pound with anticipation within in sight of the entrance. 

Zion, this little island of perfection, this Eden, was stopping me in my tracks.

Seeing those massive monoliths of colored sandstone layers, I was able to bring but one little whisper to my lips: "My God!".  

Zion's towering cliffs, deep red canyons, and huge mesas make it almost a religious experience that just leaves you breathless.

But Zion is no museum and it's purpose is not to be admired from afar. 

Its true significance comes from the fact that “she” is organic.  She allows you to become part her... absorbing you... and you her... as you hike, bike ,and backpack her beautiful trails... as you spend time with her. Fascinating!

The Wheels on the Bus

A propane-fueled bus, the only motorized transportation allowed in the park in high season,gave us the opportunity to hear a well documented commentary on the park's history.  As we listened, everyone was silent as they looked through the side and ceiling windows of the bus...in awe.

That's because Zion Canyon is a sandstone monument to Nature and her forces. Driving along the canyon floor, you realize that great things happened here and will continue to happen here. 

Just one look and one realizes that Zion Canyon,that sandstone monument to the forces of nature, makes you sit up, watch and appreciate her. 

Driving along her floor, you realize that that great things happened and continue to happen here and that Zion is no longer just a place you come to to eyeball 50 Shades of Sandstone Red and to seek adventure. 

No, Zion is visual story, told by these walls, of time and of a river, the Virgin, whose flowing waters over the course of a million years cut through the red and white beds of Navajo sandstone to form those sheer walls...

...which over the next five days would instill fear, trepidation, joy, and gratification....sometimes all at at the same time, in our hearts.

Yes,we wanted to do it all but we were going to start gently with a leisurely stroll  along the Virgin River, this most gentle and patient little rivulet that carved out both Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks most always in that one period of time where rage is her coulour...spring run-off.

It all made for a great initiation because soon afterwards, our climbing legs were put to the test as we hiked to each of the three Emerald Pools. 

On the porch back at the ranch

As the sun began to weaken, a can of beer on our porch at Two Feathers was too good to resist.

After a wonderful supper, a well fought battle saw the girls beating the boys in a friendly little crib tournament.

Another wonderful day!  

Day IV: Getting to Zion

Day IV: Getting to Zion National Park

A return engagement to the breakfast buffet at the Orleans ($7) readied us for our upcoming three-hour car road trip to Zion.  

Gladys, our GPS, was in fine form and anxious to show us her stuff.

Unexpectedly, our biggest challenge turned out to be the search for a wine store.  
And no wonder!  The Utah State prohibits itself from advertising its own liquor stores?  Not even Gladys could help!  Yikes!

In the end, it was good old sleuth work by a dogged research team bent on a successful crusade for our week's supply of Pinot Gris and Merlot that won the day.  

And did we ever strike gold!  

Now, home free, Two Feathers Ranch awaited us where majestic vistas of Zion's mountains, Texas Longhorns, beautiful quarter horses, and the babbling Virgin River were all at arm's reach.

The nearest town, Rockville, Utah, population 247, was just next door.

As for our ranch house, it was large, bright,fully equipped, and chock full of windows.

 

In short order, we were planning our first day in the park over a home-made meal and a glass of wine.

Zion park, here we come!

Day III – Hoofing it at Hoover (Part II)

Winning Hands!

Touring the Hoover Dam is just plain thirsty work.  

After our visit, the nearby Hacienda Hotel & Casino where cold beer (2 bucks) and a poker slot machine (25 cents) seemed like the best next option.

An hour of entertainment came thanks to meeting an old no-nonsense cowboy who decided to adopt us.  By the time we left the bar, $4.50 were weighing down our pockets 

So impressed was our new friend that he high-fived us and even tipped his hat as we rode off into the sunset.
  

Almost missed the "Cirque"!  Damned chocolate! 

That evening, a long anticipated buffet at the Wicked Spoon awaited us. 

The “pièce de résistance” was a desert table that left us lingering...so much so that we suddenly found ourselves pressed for time.  "O"! "O"!  

Yes, we had tickets for Cirque de Soleil's “O” and only a mad rush would get us there on time.  The chocolate must have propelled us but getting to the Bellagio wasn't the issue.  It was mostly those veritable football fields of gambling tables and one-armed-bandits that stood between us and the theater.  Rule #1...again.

“O”, what a show!

A little overheated, we made it to the theater just as the final bell was sounding. Inside there was nothing of the usual tent atmosphere one expects from Cirque.  The beautifully designed, 1,800-seat theater, built to replicate a 14th century European opera house was astounding. 

Our seats,high up in the left loges, gave us an excellent view both of the beautiful elliptical domed ceiling and of the stage, a magnificent masterpiece of technology with its 1.5-million gallon pool...which in seconds, can transform itself into a dry stage and then, in the blink of an eye, revert back again.

As for the show, “O” was astonishingly rich in colour, imagination, and daring acrobatics. 

Despite the expense ($150 a ticket), it was a privelege to witness this unique marriage of technological and athletic artistry. In short, it was an epic performance! 

Did you know....? or “O”, I wanna know!

1. “O” - The name of the show is a phonetic version of eau, the French word for water
2. $ One billion: Gross income in 2011 since the show opening in 1998
3. $10,000: The average cost of a costume which because of the erosive character of the water, must be retired just after just 20 shows.
4. 49 feet: Height of one of the hanging stages from which one of the most impressive dives is made into the 17-foot deep pool
5. SCUBA certified : Be they performers or technicians, all must be certified to work

Cirque did take a risky plunge into an underwater world but did it ever come up with a winner!  We'll not forget our incredible evening together for a long, long time.

What an amazing day!!  Zion, here we come!

Day III – Hoofing it at Hoover (Part I)

Day III – Hoofing it at Hoover

Today we say the Hoover Dam. She's a bute.
Both functional and beautiful, Hoover was built to meet the water and power needs of the South-West, all the while creating employment during the Great Depression.   Sporting a playful Art Deco style that remains attractive even today, this concrete arch-gravity dam spans both Black Canyon and the Colorado River and serves as a border crossing between between Arizona and Nevada. 

As it has for decades, this stylish monument to American ingenuity and commitment continues to draw millions of admiring visitors.    

Our first glimpse came from the new Colorado River Bridge, perched a dizzying 900 feet above the river.

Prior to the new bridge's opening, 20,000 vehicles used to cross the 45 ft.wide roof of the dam daily.  Not only a traffic nightmare, it was intimidating for drivers dealing with the challenge of vertigo.

Linda vanquished her own vertigo demons by crossing the bridge on foot.  Her greatest distraction, a big help, by the way, was the magnificent view of dam, just 1,500 feet away.

Monkey see, monkey do!

Later, below on the dam, Beth took some excellent shots of Steve, a monkey doll, that curiously enough, is spending an entire year exploring the planet as he passes from the caring hands of one traveler to another in the world's best airports. 

Logs and pics of Steve's wondrous adventures are now making their way back to his Alberta classroom, often from the most coveted of tourist destinations.  He has been so successful thus far that we nicknamed him "Stevie Wander".

As a retired school principal, I can only wish that I had come up with this amazing idea. Good luck, Steve.

Lucky #7: Seven interesting facts about the Colorado and its Hoover Dam

a) 726 feet: Height of the Hoover Dam
b) 660 feet or two footballs fields measured end-to-end: Thickness of the dam at its base:.
c) 4 1/2 million cubic yards: Volume of concrete in Hoover Dam – enough to build a 4 ft. wide sidewalk around the Earth at the Equator.
d) 1,400 miles: Length of the Colorado River System:
e) 0 liters: Volume of the Colorado which flows reaches the sea:....every drop serves the needs of the Southwest.
f) 96: Number of industrial fatalities during the construction of Hoover Dam:
g) The irony: The first death was that of J.G. Tierney, a surveyor who, on December 20, 1922, drowned when he fell from a barge. Exactly 13 years later, in 1935, his son Patrick W. Tierney fell to his death from an intake tower. 



A big concern for Canucks: See the ominous, bleach-white bathtub ring on the surrounding mountainsides.   Since 1999, the Southwest has been drought stricken. Lake Mead is currently at 40 percent capacity and shrinking. 


O.K. What might the geo-political repercussions for Canada be if this trend continues?  


End of Part I - Learn how we learn meet our first cowboy in Part II.