Blog Entry XIX – Japan II – Surprises in Kyoto

Speedy trains

Sure, our rail car was well appointed and really comfortable but one look outside the window and we knew there was more to it. The Nozomi was no ordinary train but rather a bullet train.... with maximum speeds ranging between 240 and 300 km/h. O.K., the passing landscape wasn't blurry but Japan's largest mountain, Mount Fuji, did only stay in sight for about 45 seconds.

Almost nuked

Sally, Linda, James and I were on our way to Kyoto, a city which until 1868 was Japan's national capital. 


Kyoto also claimed to be one of the country's intellectual and religious centers 


....and for that reason it was scheduled in 1945,


.... to get the next atomic bomb after Hiroshima. 

Thanks to the American Secretary of War, Henry Stinson, Kyoto was saved. 


He understood its cultural importance.


And so, Nagasaki got the nod.  

Having seen Kyoto a few years earlier, we were so glad that James and Sally wanted to repeat the experience. 


For sure, castles, shrines, and temples found their way into our schedule but for all of us, ....


....it was the surprises that made all the difference!

                Surprise #1

Naturally, every shrine or temple wants to differentiate itself from the others. Still, after so many temple visits, one can become...


....well, a little jaded. 

I'm somewhat embarrassed to report that 

Japan's largest wooden temple, the Todai-ji Temple, which houses the world's biggest Buddha statue, did leave us a little flat that day...


...that is until I was leaning over to smell the incense at the temple censer, and got goosed. 

Hoping it might be one of the local geisha girls, I turned to see.  The smile on my face turned into surprise when I found myself starring straight into the eye of a sacred deer. 

Expressionless, the deer then bowed, yes I said... bowed. 

Was this deer getting all "Eat, Pray, Love" with me?

Not really!  In Nara, these small Japanese deer have been held sacred for the past 1,300 years and enjoy free access everywhere... 


...yes, even to homes and temples alike. 

At the Todai-ji Temple, cookies are baked daily for the deer...
who love their cookies and will do lunch almost anywhere if you have some.  


They'll even join you in the elevator or, believe it or not, inside a public restroom. 

Their hunger is boundless. And should they catch you with one of their favourite delights in your pants pocket, pay heed...


...from a deer's point of view:
“it's lock and load, baby.” 

Is this one on the prowl?

Oh, "deer"!

Surprise #2 - Kimonos in Kyoto

James and Sally's first visit to Kyoto had been wonderful but kimono-less.  This time back, it was different.

The kimono is a Japanese traditional garment worn by men, women and children alike and is currently part of a trend. 

Today in Japan,  a renaissance of Japanese culture is bringing back all things Japanese. 

Men and women of all ages are now renting kimonos for week-ends on the town. 

People everywhere were wearing them: in the parks, in all the temples, at the market or even registering for a room at our hotel. 

Old is new again...and with flair!

Surprise #3 – First the Geisha...then the food.

James, Sally, Linda, and I all share a common passion for food. The bell hop at the hotel suggested that the Japanese Food Market, just minutes away from our hotel, would be a wonderful second alternative.  


And what was her first choice?

That was most assuredly a visit to one of Kyoto's 5 geisha towns.  I must say that our geisha morning was most enjoyable but we're foodies so the fun really began at the market. 

Thousands were there sharing our passion, both young and old.

Strolling through the mile-long arcade was a like riding a wake board on a wave of brilliant colours and spicy smells. 

It was each to his own. James came upon a wonderful cafe, Sally and Linda gift shopped, and I took pictures. 

When we met at James' cafe, we were greeted by the staff with a complimentary pot of tea and a lot of smiles. What a wonderful day!

Our time together in Japan went by too quickly. An hour later, we were on our way to the train station. James and Sally would be staying in Japan for another 3 weeks.  As for us, we were heading back to Tokyo.

Surprise #4 – Graduating monks

Back in Tokyo, we had a day in front of us before our return flight to Busan to see Andrew, Erin, and Watson. One more temple seemed to be our motto. So, off we went.




Built in 1681 and the only temple to have withstood all the earthquakes and the bombings of the second world war, this working temple with its huge Buddhist school was having a graduation for young apprentice monks.

How did we know? The neatly placed chairs outside the temple and the two photographers lining up their cameras gave it away.

A Zen-like patience was needed for this shoot. Everything was taking place behind closed temple doors which, from time to time, opened to reveal a flourish of activity and only to shut again.

It really wasn't a problem though.  The sun was beautiful and the temperature spring-like. Linda and I spelled each other off at the temple while the other explored the grounds and took pictures.

Note the shoes.

Ninety minutes later, our patience paid off.  When the monks finally did emerge, we were witness to a what was akin to a royal photo shoot... the entire temple hierarchy showed up...in their best shoes. 

Within 15 minutes, our great little adventure came to an end, leaving us with a few good pictures and one more lasting memory richer.  


Oh, Japan.












While on our way out through the bottom gate, one monk stopped me, stuck up his right thumb and said “Bravo!”. 


My guess?   He didn't think we'd stick it out. 


 He doesn't know Linda.

Some other shots that I loved:

Until next time.

Blog Entry XVIII Interesting Facts about Japan

Japan - Part II - Quick Facts

Area: 377,873km², slightly smaller than California

Population: 127 million... and falling (very homogeneous, composed of 98.5% ethnic Japanese.)

Capital: Tokyo

Largest city: Tokyo (Metropolitan Tokyo, is the world's largest with a population of 35 million inhabitants)

Percentage of habitable land: 18

Life Expectancy: Average: 82, Male: 78.8, Female: 85.6 (Canada's average: 80.7)

GDP per Capita: $33,800 (Canada: $39 000)

Literacy Rate: 99% (Canada's literacy rate: 99%)

Number of earthquakes per year: 1500

Largest earthquake: 1923 the Great Kanto Earthquake killed more than 143,000 people in the Tokyo area.

Number of active Volcanoes in Japan: 200 (Mount Fuji is Japan's largest mountain and active volcanoe)

Language: Japanese but when writing 4 different scripts are used (Kanji, Hiragana, Katakana, Romanji)

Religion: Two main religions: Shinto and Buddhism. Religion is practiced little here....births, weddings, funerals...

Japan - Interesting Facts

On the right: In Japan, you drive on the left side of the road; in Korea, on the right.

Please slurp!: Noodles and soup are slurped loudly when eaten. It does cool down the food and to some, symbolizes that the food is delicious. Linda just can't seem to get used to it so I've reduced my soup and noodle intake. By the way, most Japanese eat their soup with chop sticks.

Shoes off!: When entering a house, you will need to remove your street shoes and don a pair of slippers so as not to contaminate the home.  Interestingly, to use the washroom, one needs to put on yet another pair of special bathroom slippers, for exactly the same reason.

More than just a toilet: Japanese toilets can be quite sophisticated, having a built-in seat warmer and bidet system for spraying your backside. 


Yes indeed, Japanese toilets shoot back.

Some fresh air please: In Japan non-smoking areas are difficult to find in restaurants. Many of Japan's politicians, it seems, have interest in the tobacco industry so anti-smoking laws have just gone up in, well, smoke.

A hot towel: Restaurants in Japan (including McDonald's) give you moist (often hot) towels or wipes before or with your meal. (very civilized)

Rice is nice:  Sure, many Japanese eat rice for lunch and dinner. but did you know that rice is a favourite breakfast dish.  Soup is a morning favorite as well.

Vending machines in Japan: The Japanese can buy beer in vending machines. Neat too are the machines that sell both hot and cold canned coffee.

No Trash Cans: As in Korea, despite the absence of trash cans in Japan, there is no littering. In fact, as in South Korea, there is almost no vandalism or graffiti.

Walking funny: In Japan, it is not uncommon to see women wearing platform shoes that are 4 to 6 inches high. Despite the many accidents and a certain difficulty walking graciously, Japanese women are persistent...
the trend will remain strong for some time.

No kissing: Despite Japan's obsession with sex, it is considered rude to show signs of affection toward a loved one in public.

Until next time.

Blog Entry XVII: Japan Part I - Tokyo

Flying Delta out of Busan, we landed in Narita, Tokyo's International Airport with two objectives:  to gather  some wonderful first-impressions of this amazing country and to see my brother and sister-in-law, James and Sally.  


Our first task here in Tokyo, the world's largest metropolitan city, was to find our way to our hotel, a very comfortable hour and a half train ride across the city.  

The Metropolitan Hotel

  
At the Metropolitan, we were received like royalty.  


From the moment, we stepped onto the rich, deeply cushioned carpet of the hotel's reception hall,  three smartly dressed attendants were on us, looking to carry our bags and escort us each step of way.

Tipping in Japan is taboo...a violation of accepted social norms, a cultural faux pas... and yet service, everywhere, particularly at our hotel, was impeccable. They even upgraded our room.

And yet, I was hardly able to enjoy all the attention, at least at first.  I spent so much time trying to conjure up words like “thank you” in Japanese that it all just passed me by.   


If you're wondering, it was thanks to that Tom Cruise movie “The Last Samurai” that anything that sounded close to Japanese passed my lips.  And as for the the "thank you"....?   With a little bow, I laid it out there like a big egg.  “Arigatou !” 


Thankfully, it drew generous smiles as opposed to laughter.  Mission accomplished.

A look out the window the next morning gave us some clue as to how big Tokyo really was... massive!


The "Metropolitan" is on the north side of the city, once the heart and soul of Japanese culture...and a paradise for the neophyte traveler to Japan.

Our first stop was Ueno Park.  Loved by the Japanese, this place has everything from museums to  temples.  It even houses the city zoo.  And although Spring hadn't yet sprung, some of Tokyo's famous cherry blossoms did thankfully rendezvous on time for our arrival and Tokyo's cherry blossom festival.

Jet lag, if one can call it that, kept us from starting at a torrid pace.  In fact, we spent the morning strolling leisurely in the park, listening to music, drinking coffee and people watching.  We did manage to fit in one museum, the National Museum.  It was a wonderful beginning to our first day in Japan.

Little did we know what the afternoon would bring us....  


... at the Senso-Ji Temple, Tokyo's most sacred and spectacular temple.  There, they were celebrating the opening of Tokyo's cherry blossom festival.

The temple was just a bee hive of activity!! Throngs filled the alleys, the smell of incense filled the air, while the booths and small boutiques pulled at us like gravity.   Our walk to the temple became a veritable trek...


...and at the same time, a most enchanting and unforgettable experience.  To be there at this time, among these people, around this temple, was bliss.  

We were riveted.

There was so much to see...

..and be curious about...

...and marvel at...

..and to try and understand...

...and reflect upon....

...and admire that day.

...like the incredibly skilled craftsmen in the shops surrounding the temple....

...not to mention all the shoppers.  What does one look for on a spring-showery day....a parasol?  Maybe!

And what of the people who might come across your path...

The day went by too quickly.  Still the walking, talking, exploring, and browsing began to take a toll.  It was time to return to the hotel.

James and Sally would be arriving soon for their three-week stay in Japan. 


We were really happy that our schedules overlapped and that we would be spending five days here together with them.

At breakfast, we spent two hours catching up  and making plans for this very rainy day. 

James and Sally had a morning trade fair to attend and we wanted to see the emperor's palace so...

...we'd rendezvous in the foyer of the Peninsula Hotel for coffee and lunch.

Despite the rain or maybe because of it, the palace grounds were beautifully stark. The fortress walls were a dark gray, the palace buildings, off-white, and the water,somber and murky, Somehow though, it all worked. 

The rain turned into a steady, persistent soaker.  After a few quick shots, we made tracks for the Peninsula Hotel for coffee and lunch with James and Sally.

New York has its Macy's and London, its Harrods.  And who hasn't heard of “Printemps” in Paris. 

These are, after all, the Valhallas of retail, the palazzos of purchasing, the Taj Mahals of taste and discernment


...all department stores of distinction from which great things are expected and where guests are held to a higher standard. 


Tokyo's entry into this rarefied world of consumerism is without a doubt, Takashimaya.

From the gold emblazoned lettering on the thick glass doors, to the beautifully decorated grand foyer with its giant bouquets of flowers, to the smartly uniformed clerks in fresh white gloves, Takashimaya's message was clear: 


One comes to Takashimaya to seek the pleasure of unadulterated individual service. 

While I'm sure every Takashimaya guest has his or her own story, it was without a doubt, the beautifully formal, ever-patient, elevator operators who personified for me the meaning of Takashimaya service.   

Single-handedly, these young women transformed a normally very routine experience into a beautiful oriental ritual...


...reminiscent of a Japanese Tea Ceremony.  


It was breath-taking...


...and worth repeating!

And just look at those hats!

 Oh yes, I was smitten and oh yes, I did take several rides.

Tokyo's weather called for more rain and rain it did. 

In a bygone era, temporary outdoor stands were the popular solution for dripping umbrellas and unwanted puddles on clean marble floors.

And of course,  it was simply understood that one's umbrella would still be there upon one's return. 

Look! The Umbrella Sheath Distributor

But it is said that somehow tourists, misunderstanding the workings of this fine tradition, sometimes borrowed the said umbrellas, only to place them in other “available” racks once the rain had stopped.  Oops!

Yes, there were complaints...but was there a solution?

Thanks to Japanese ingenuity, the “umbrella sheath distributor" was born and what an engineering marvel it was!  


One had only to insert the dripping-wet umbrella into the distributor and presto.... it would emerge covered in an elongated plastic sheath. 

No fuss and more importantly, no mess on the freshly polished Takashimaya Department Store floors.

The camera condom

As I mentioned, Tokyo's rain was a real soaker and  I was beginning to worry about my camera.  

Slow, unremitting rain, is a killer for cameras hiding under old jackets like mine.  What to do? 

Thanks to some Canadian ingenuity and the Takashimaya sheath, the camera condom was born.   

Applying it over the lens and onto the camera body, I found that all problems relating to leaks disappeared. 

Thanks to the camera condom, not only was the camera protected from leaks, but there was also 99% assurance against any unwanted... pictures.


....O.K., there was one slip but who could resist?

Tomorrow, we all off to Kyoto.

Until next time.