Blog Entry XV Serendipitous Jeju Island - Part II

We designated Friday as Jeju City Day. The sky looked ready to play some tricks on us but since we had to do some shopping anyway,  into town we went. On the way, we discovered some neat little corners of the city that had been thus far undiscovered.

The first little gem was the Hanch'on, a stream that we followed right to the sea. There, we came upon a large lava rock formation shaped like a dragon's head and suitably called “dragon head rock”.

Continuing on our way, we came across a curious little pedestrian suspension bridge, which Linda only crossed after much prayer.  The locals call it Cloud Bridge often sit in the adjoining pagoda on cool summer evenings.

Everywhere in Korea, the town's beautiful architecture features the Joseon Dynasty, the last Korean kingdom before the Japanese colonization (1910-1945) and sadly, the only dynastic architecture left in Korea.

The Joseon Dynasty or... Why do Koreans bow when you enter a bank or hotel?

Lasting 500 years, Korea's last dynastic family, did leave a lasting imprint.  Korean culture, trade, science, literature, and technology all came to never-before-seen heights during their reign, leaving the Korean psyche entrenched in Confucian ideals and doctrines.  Respect for their elders is embedded in their nature and yes, bowing to them when they enter any sort of institution.  I did enjoy the bowing.

Isolationism is the policy of isolating one's country from the affairs of other nations by declining to enter into alliances, foreign economic commitments, foreign trade, international agreements, etc., seeking to devote the entire efforts of one's country alone to its own advancement. 

Is North Korea really that different?

 Severely weakened by the many attempted invasions from Japan and China, Korea's rulers came to see a harsh isolationist policy as its only solution for survival.   
As a result, the Joseon kingdom became the Hermit Kingdom.

Sound familiar?  North Korea's isolationism today was perhaps a learned response from the Joeson Dynasty.

Why do Koreans present their 
business card with two hands?

In 1910, the Japanese brought the weakened dynasty to its knees but its influence lived on as a psychological and social legacy to modern day Korea. 


Even the mundane act of exchanging business cards demonstrates how modern Korean etiquette and thought is permeated by Confucian rules. 

Literally every Korean student from grade one up knows that homework must be presented with both hands, thumbs together on top, the eyes directed to the floor.

Our day went on...to another world... underground

Beside the temple was a modern Buddhist Middle School for boys where we discovered that adolescent psychology applies here too.

Despite the militaristic style of the Phys. Ed. Teacher , his cherubic disciples seemed to find ways to be boys. 

We did enjoy watching all their hidden antics as they went about their aerobic routines until it was time to move on to our last destination, an underground shopping mall right below the Joseon Dynasty Outdoor Museum. What a contrast!

It was one of those “Life's Waiting” kind of days

It was our final day on Jeju Island and we hadn't yet visited Jeju's second town, Soegwipo, where you'll find the Jeonbang Waterfall, plausibly Asia's only waterfall to drop directly into the sea.

The approach was dramatic. Climbing down the cliff face via a well-made set of stairs, we had to be careful.  Drawn first by the noise from the falls, our pace was quickening. 


Cameras ready, we started snapping pictures at the first glimpse. 

With its water plummeting down the sleek sapphire-like descent, it was amazing to see and then to feel the water as it poured over the huge rounded boulders in the cove below, and then making its right to the sea.

Linda was so inspired that she was overcome with the urge to shop.  Whether she was hungry or just feeling romantic, it's hard to say but our ascent was rapid...and soon, our shopping bags were full of Jeju orange rice wine and chocolate.

Serendipity... at its best

And yet, our day was still before us. Quite accidentally, we crossed paths with Kyeong Hee Kim, a bright-eyed, ever-curious, newly retired English teacher from Seoul. She had just moved to the island and her love for all things Jeju permeated everything she did and said.

Meeting Kyeong Hee

“Where are you from?”, she asked.    "Canada!", We replied. 
“I have a friend in Canada.” She pulled out a beautiful Korean greeting card. “In fact, I'm sending her this with a small gift.”
Somehow, we were making a connection.

“Today, I'm doing Olle Trail #6.”  The literature she showed us said: “The Olle Trail system was inspired by the Camino de Santiago, in Spain. Trail #6 will take you to forests, mountains, and beaches and will offer unrivaled views of the beautiful coastal town of Seogwipo”   “...and we'll be done by four”. You can take our bus back to the city, if you'd like. There's room.   Wow!!

Then she asked: “I bet you're wondering what the best thing about the Jeju Olle trails really is?”   Well, yes, I kind of was.

“...walking with your friends or family, you give each other two gifts: the gift of nature that you share; and the gift of time you spend together.”  OMG

OK!!   Enough said... we were off to do an Olle....together.

The hike was wonderful... full of peaks, ocean views, and of course, lots of talking. 


At trail's end, on a cliff overlooking the ocean, we joined the other hikers to share food, coffee, some Jeju tangerines, a specialty in Korea, and stories....an hour later we were all in the hiker-bus, heading back to Jeju City.

At the station, Kyeong Hee offered to drive us home. She proposed that we first go to see beautiful Iho Beach. 


On route, we stopped to climb one last volcanic hill, one of her favorites and one of the local favorites too.  Why?  ...because it overlooks the airport and all its activity.

On our  descent, I noticed way down at the base of the mountain, I noticed a temple.  Knowing that Kyeong Hee was Buddhist, I asked her if the temple might still be open. She suggested that we go down and check.

The temple was beautiful. With hats and shoes left at the door, we entered. In front of the brilliant golden Buddha statues, three monks were demonstrating the communal Buddhist meal service to university students.  I watched in amazement.

After taking our leave, Kyeon Hee, who had been speaking with temple assistants, led us to a neighboring annex where we were... get this... invited in for supper. Bowing, we greeted and were greeted by everyone: An-yŏng-ha-se-yo.  
What an amazing experience to have shared such a delicious meal in the traditional Buddhist manner.   

Korean tradition prohibits any form of payment in situations like these.  Many bows and thank-yous (Kam-sa-ham-ni-da) were all that was needed when it was time to go. At the temple, any attempt to pay or even to make an offering would have caused offense.

In the end, we did make it to Iho Beach for a walk . Although dark by this time, it was easy to see why the sandy, gently-sloping beach was a popular destination for tourists. Kyeong Hee has us back to our hotel by 9 pm.

It had all made for an incredible adventure and one very serendipitous day. 


 Needless to say, Kyeong Hee would accept no gift from us. It seems to be the Buddhist way.

Thank you, Kyeong Hee, for our best day on Jeju Island.

The next day, Kyeong Hee was going to be hiking with fellow Buddhists from her temple and we were preparing to fly back to see Andrew and Erin. The airport was full of friendly and happy faces!

Until next time.