Blog Entry XI Seoul Part II

Seoul, a city-fortress

Weather and time, often the great influencers in what you do as a tourist in Seoul, were in our favour. With two days of “friendly weather” ahead of us, we headed out to conquer the remnants of Seoul's ancient past, its fortress wall.

Since the late 14th century an 18.2 - km wall has defined the city of Seoul. Surprisingly, most native Seoulians have little experience with the remaining 10.5km of this rampart that snakes across the four mountains that surround the city.

We started at the Dongdaemun Gate on the city’s lowland area but seconds later, we were climbing.

Of the many highlights, two that will always stand out are:

a) the changing of the smoke-pot guard :

Sorry, the ceremony had nothing to do with weed or having the munchies.

Lighting the huge brick chimneys served as a warning system for ancient Seoul. 


The greater and more imminent the danger, the greater the number of chimneys lit.

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Those we crossed paths with... were fascinating, friendly, and  fun to meet.  

It's amazing how much a few Korean words and lots of charades can help get an idea or even a joke across that linguistic no-man's land. 

Truly, we found elderly and young alike, all climbing stairs, working out at outdoor exercise stations, hiking trails, or just playing music. 


What a lesson for Canadians!

And what a fabulous experience!

A Temple Visit

From the very start , we wanted to visit Buddhist temples. About 55% of Korea's practicing population is Buddhist while Christians make up about 43%.Temples for both faiths are everywhere.

Entering our first Buddhist temple, the evidence of tradition, history, architecture, and yes, even intrigue, flooded the eye. Yet a peaceful and hushed atmosphere ruled despite the busyness of the faithful praying, reading the Buddha Bible, lighting incense, or even just enjoying the day's newspaper in the lotus position

But what is the etiquette in a temple?    
Very simple, when entering,

• Remove Your Hat and Shoes – Just look for the  pile of shoes outside to know where to leave them.
  
• Show Respect: no cell phones, gum, MP3's, pointing, or loud talking. It all sounds like school. No wonder I felt at home so quickly.
  
• Cover Yourself: No problem that day. Today's weather had us all  modestly and warmly dressed.
  
• Respect the Buddha Statues: When exiting , make sure to back away from the Buddha .
  
• Don't Point: When sitting, never point your feet at a person or image of Buddha. Given our proximity to one another, I really appreciated this one.
  
• Stand Up: Should you be lucky enough to be sitting in the worship area when a monks enters.

What a fabulous and memorable experience...one which I would very much like to repeat.

The Korean War Museum, it was beautiful but....

Japanese Yoke = A Korean Humiliation

While millions more Koreans were killed during the 1950-53 Korean War than during the 1910-1945 Japanese Colonial Occupation, it is the latter period that Koreans consider to be their darkest. 

It was a period of total submission...of total compliance when no national resistance opposed Japan's domination...a period of collaboration and now a period of national humiliation. 


But is such humiliation was not unique to Korea. 

After all, didn't France collaborate for five years under the Nazi jackboot. 


Yet France's psyche remains strong... thanks to the reputation of the French Resistance. 


The Koreans had no anti-colonial heroes and it may haunt this now proud and independent nation for a very long time. 

Sometimes, it's as if the purpose of the Korean War Museum was 

to deflect, to divert, and to drown the pain.

Until next time!